This dish is light and clean, and calls out for wines that are the same. Three selections — a Champagne, a sauvignon blanc from New Zealand and a gruner veltliner from California — will complement the braising citrus and still be fresh and light enough not to overpower the fish itself.
Heat oven broiler. Fillet 2 whole rainbow trout; place fillets skin side down in a single layer in an ovenproof skillet. Scatter 2 chopped green onions over trout; season with salt and pepper. Pour in 1/2 cup orange juice and 2 tablespoons dry vermouth or white wine; sprinkle with 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill. Heat to a boil over high heat. Transfer skillet to oven; broil until fish is opaque and firm to the touch, about 5 minutes. Reduce sauce briefly on the stovetop, if you like. Serve trout over sauteed spinach, drizzled with the sauce.
Makes: 2 servings>Rice
Pairings by Nate Redner, beverage director of Booth One, as told to Michael Austin:
2015 Tatomer Paragon Gruner Veltliner, Edna Valley, California: This producer has mastered elegance and restraint in its alpine varietals — a feat, considering the lush growing conditions of California. Full of notes of lime zest, grapefruit and leafy herbs, this wine will be a fresh complement to the citrus the trout is braised in.>
2015 Te Awa Left Field Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson, New Zealand: This selection shows notes of passion fruit, green mango and tarragon. Because this wine is from one vintage back, its softer acidity will work with the dish’s tart citrus. Plus, the wine’s tropical notes will mingle nicely with the sweetness of the orange.
Pierre Paillard Les Parcelles Grand Cru Extra Brut Champagne, Bouzy, Champagne, France: A blend of 60 percent pinot noir and 40 percent chardonnay, this wines walks the line between lean and rich, with notes of red fruits and citrus. Energetic and persistent effervescence will cleanse the palate after each bite: a clean wine for a clean dish.
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In her quest to find out what happened to big Jewish delis in Chicago, Louisa Chu ate her way through dozens of corned beef and other sandwiches plus bowls of chicken soup throughout the area, in delis and in other restaurants. Here is her answer to where you can find good ones. (Louisa Chu/Chicago Tribune)