As a rule, the more decorative a baked good is, the worse it tastes. Think about fondant-draped wedding cakes (inevitably crumbly inside), meticulously latticed double-crusted pies (with cardboard-like crust), and cupcakes crowned with spirals of frosting (which tastes of Crisco). The holidays, which frequently prompt people to bake picturesque things, are particularly plagued by lovely-looking and terrible-tasting desserts. Some of these items exist to be looked at, of course: Gingerbread houses, as I was devastated to learn as a child, are meant to be seen and then tossed, not eaten. But others feign a dual purpose, pretending they can have it both ways. I speak primarily of gingerbread houses’ deceitful inhabitants: gingerbread men.